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Get Rid Of Rats & Mice : How To Kill Rats & Mice Rats and Mice Problems ?  We've Got Rats and Mice Control Information, Rats and Mice Pictures, Rat Mouse Control Products, Step by Step Rat and Mice Treatment, Rat Control Videos and more! Click Here For Our Special Rat and Mouse Control Kit

Rats and Mice Facts   |   10 Signs of Rat and Mice Infestation   |   Rat and Mice Common Species in The USA
How To Kill Rats and Mice Indoors   |   Outdoor Rat and Mice Baiting   |   Fly Control Due To Dead Rats and Mice

 

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Rats and Mice Facts
Rats and Mice have been responsible for or implicated in the spread of various diseases to people and domestic animals for years. Today however, because of improvements in sanitation, effective drugs, and rodent and insect control programs, the disease threat from rodents is not as significant as it once was. But because of the habits of rodents traveling in sewers, garbage, etc., there are still cases of human and animal diseases being transmitted and there is also the constant potential of disease outbreaks in cities where rats and mice live in close proximity to people. However small the threat may be, it is a potential that always must be kept in mind.

Some of the more common diseases transmitted by rats and mice or parasites that they carry are -

Plague - which is spread from rats to people by the oriental rat flea.

Murine Typhus - caused by a bacterial organism which is transmitted from infected rats to people also by the oriental rat flea.

Rickettsial pox - also caused by a bacterial organism is transmitted by mites from mice to people. Mainly in areas of New York City and several New England Cities.

Salmonellosis (acute food poisoning) - is caused by a bacterium which can thrive in sewers, live stock facilities, septic tanks, cesspools, garbage, and other similar environments. It is spread mainly by fecal droppings by rats and mice.

Rat Bite Fever - is caused by a bacterium which can live in the saliva of both rats and mice. It has flu like symptoms that can last for days and is sometimes fatal.

Leptospirosis, Lymphocytic choriomeningitis, trichinosis, typhoid, dysentery as well as others.


10 Signs of Rat and Mice Infestation
Rats and mice almost always leave signs that can lead to their discovery.  The ten signs to look for are:

1. droppings or feces
2. tracks
3. gnawing damage
4. burrows
5. runways
6. grease marks or rub marks
7. urine stains (which can be discovered with a blacklight)
8. live or dead rodents
9. rodent sounds
10. rodent odors (especially mice)


Rat and Mice Common Species in The USA
There are 3 main species of rats and mice that are of significance in the United States. They are the Roof Rat or tree Rat, the Norway Rat or ground rat, and the House Mouse. Of course there are lots of other species such as field mice, field rats, wharf rats, sewer rats, etc.. but the Roof Rats and Norway Rats and the House Mouse are the ones of primary importance.  They are the species of commensal rodents that homeowners and building owners deal with 90% of the time.

The Roof Rat Has A Long Tail, Large Ears and Has A Slender Body.
Roof Rats Are Commonly Found In Trees, Attics, Old Houses,
And Is the #1 Rodent Found In Inner Cities.

Norway Rats Have Small Ears, Short Tail, and Have A Fat Rounded Body.
Norway Rats Are Commonly Found In Fields, Sewers, Living Under Debris, Etc.
They Are The #1 Rat Infesting Barns, Poultry Houses, and Rural Areas.

The House Mouse Generally Lives Inside or Near Homes.
They Are The #1 Mouse Infesting Inner City Homes and Buildings.

How To Kill Rats and Mice
In your personal battle against rodents such as rats and mice, it is important to remember that you are dealing with an animal that is capable of crawling, climbing, and chewing it's way into your home or business.  They can flatten themselves out and squeeze through the smallest of openings, even under closed doors.   If the hole is not big enough, they can easily chew it or gnaw it to a large enough size so that they can get through.  Generally, if a rodent can squeeze it's head through an opening, (most rodents heads are the size of a quarter or smaller), it will eventually get through.   This is why your strategy for rat or mice control always starts on the outside of the structure.

Outdoors - The first thing to do is to make sure that there are no holes that the rodents can get through.  Check all plumbing and electrical entrances, doors, folding garage doors, etc.   Also check behind gutters, around chimney and plumbing stack flashing, and in the case of raised or pier and beam homes, make sure that they cannot get access under the foundation or skirting or through screened vents.  The point is that any hole on the outside of the house can give rats or mice entrance.  If the hole is not big enough, the rats or mice will gnaw it to make it bigger.  Rats must constantly gnaw and sharpen their teeth to keep them filed down.  Rats teeth grow an average of 7 " per year. This is why they constantly gnaw and chew. 

Stuffit Copper Wool EZ Klean Bait Station Protecta Bait Station Rat Rock Rodent Station Contrac Rodenticide

Outside rodent "Exclusion" is very simple in most cases, however most pest control companies may charge upwards of several hundred dollars for this service.  Small holes in need of repair can easily be patched with Stuffit Copper Wool.  Stuffit Copper Wool works better than steel wool because of the way that it is woven.  Because of the weaving pattern, the Stuffit Copper Wool tends to get caught in the rodents teeth making it hard for them to chew through or remove.  The Stuffit Copper Wool does not rust so rust stains on brick or wood siding are not a concern as it is with regular steel wool.  A small amount of Stuffit Copper Wool placed in weep holes, pipe entrances, etc. that are smaller than 2" will help to keep rodents out.  Larger holes need to be fixed or repaired properly with quality building materials.  You may wish to consult a building contractor  for this service.  It is also very important to make sure that tree limbs, shrubs, etc, do not overhang the structure and are trimmed back at least 5 feet.  Overhanging tree limbs can provide relatively easy access to the rooftop - especially for roof rats which are capable of jumping several feet.  Any aerial electrical or utility lines that enter the structure should be rodent proofed.  This is easily accomplished by placing Crisco, Bearing lube or some other thick greasy slippery substance on the line.  Special caution should be used when applying anything to electrical lines or lines that contain any voltage or electrical current.  Special wraps can also be placed onto utility lines that are cut and made from aluminum rolls available at any hardware store.  A paper plate can be used as a template and traced onto the aluminum.  Shears can then be used to cut and fashion the aluminum in such a way that it can be fastened onto the wire or cable to make a "block" on the wire that the rodents cannot get around.  You may wish to contact your local electrical or utility company prior to making such applications. Outside protected feeding stations such as the EZ Klean Bait Station or the Protecta Bait Station can be placed against the sides of the home or building at 30 - 50 foot intervals.  Use Contrac or Final rodenticides outside.  Contrac rodenticide is a wax based outdoor bait that kills rodents dead with one feeding, unlike DCON and other baits that require multiple feedings.  It is very toxic, that is the reason it is only used outdoors in protected feeding stations such as the Protecta.  Protecta's are easily placed behind shrubs, ornamental plants, etc, or openly placed along foundation walls.  They provide the rodents exactly what they are looking for, food and shelter - hopefully before they find their way into your home.  Outside rodent bait stations are commonly used around commercial buildings, restaurants, food processing plants, etc. and work extremely well in the residential environment.  If you don't like the looks of the Protecta Bait Station, then check out the Rat Rock Rodent Station.  The Rat Rock looks like a rock, but is actually a well designed sturdy rat feeding station.  Rat Rocks are very popular at restaurants, amusement parks and other places where a rodent feeding station would be an eyesore. Before using any outdoor bait station, make sure that there are not competing food sources for the rodents.  Garbage, pet food, animal feed, etc, are much more acceptable to rodents than any rodent bait.  Even though rats and mice will eat almost anything, the effectiveness of any outdoor baiting program depends on sanitation practices.  If sanitation practices are an issue, the effectiveness of your baiting program will be minimal.  In other words, if the outside areas contain garbage, pet food, animal feed, etc, the rats or mice usually will not eat the bait.  Clean it up first, and your program will be successful.

Indoors - After the outside environment has been cleaned up, sealed up and outdoor bait stations have been used, inside control can begin.  The idea is that once the outside environment has been repaired and cleaned up, hopefully, the rodents will unable to gain entrance to the home or building and will be happy either remaining outside, until they consume the outside bait, or they will be trapped inside. 

Do Not Use Rat Baits Indoors !
We do not recommend using rat baits or rodenticides indoors.  If a rodent eats a rodenticide indoors, unless it can find its way out of the structure before the effects of the rodenticide set in - usually 3 to 5 days, it will die indoors.  There is no such thing as a rodenticide or a rat bait that causes the rodent to become thirsty and look for water.  There is also no such thing as a rodenticide that causes the rodents body to not smell or to dry out during the rotting phase.  These "white lies" are used by exterminators and other rodent control novices because tossing rat bait into an attic is easy and inexpensive. 

A rodent that eats a rodenticide dies because of internal hemorraging.  All rodent baits currently on the market work by thinning the rodents blood or anticoagulation.  If you use a rodenticide indoors and the rodent dies indoors, be prepared for a period of several weeks to months in which pungent foul odors wills linger in the air.  A rotting animal carcass usually bloats and the resulting body fluids will seep out and cause the odors.  Flies and other insects can be attracted to the rotting rodent carcass resulting in new problems.  The bottom line ?  Don't use rodenticides indoors because you don't want to spend the money on a decent trap.  You will pay down the road, especially if the rodent dies in an unreachable area of your attic or wall and cannot be removed.
 

RatZapper Rat Tale Remote Light Ketchall Mouse Trap T Rex Rat Trap Trapper Glue Boards X-O Odor Neutralizer Microspray

Our Number #1 pick indoors for rat and mice control is the Rat Zapper Ultra.  The Rat Zapper in an ingenious device that lures the rat or mouse into a small chamber where an electrical charge supplied by 4 AA batteries zaps the rat or mouse and causes it's heart to stop beating.  It then zaps again in about 20 seconds to make sure that the rodent is dead.  A light then blinks on top of the Rat Zapper to let you know it needs to be emptied.  You never even have to see the rat !  It is perfect for indoor use, generally safe around children and pets and best of all, will last for years as long as the batteries are replaced.  1 set of AA batteries will zap about 10 rodents and last about 30 days.  If you need a longer battery life, or need a stronger voltage for bigger rats, then add the Rat Pack Power Booster.  The Rat Pack Power Booster holds D size batteries and will work for about 6 months between battery changes. An optional Rat Tale is also available that contains a blinking light that will allow the Rat Zapper to be remotely placed into attic areas or other tight inaccessible areas where routine inspection of the Rat Zapper is impractical. The Rat Zapper is a humane way of capturing and disposing of rats and mice.  Don't think that zapping rodents by using an electrical charge is cruel.  The rodent is killed within seconds and no mess results.  Unlike rodenticides or poisons which can cause the rodent agonizing pain and suffering lasting for several days, sometimes resulting in the rodent vomiting or urinating blood making a big mess, the Rat Zapper kills rodents quickly efficiently and painlessly and is our number #1 pick for indoor control of both rats and mice. For mice trapping indoors, another very good trap is the Ketchall Mouse Trap.  The Ketchall Mouse Trap is a repeating mouse trap that catches up to 15 mice in 1 setting.  Upon entering the side of the Ketchall, the rodent steps on a trigger that causes a large door to revolve around and toss the mouse into the side chamber where the air holes are located.  The mouse or mice depending on how many you catch can then be let go or disposed of.  The Ketchall Mouse Trap  is recommend by PETA because it is a live trap.  The Ketchall Mouse Trap is perfect for use around children and pets and will capture mice, field mice and smaller field rats and immature rats.  The Ketchall will not catch large roof rats or norway rats. Other types of traps are available such as T Rex Rat Trap.  Snap traps, live traps, etc, can be very effective and capturing rats and mice.  However these types of traps tend to be "hit and miss".  The products that we recommend here work very well in most applications and do not need a lot of tweaking or experimentation to successfully work. Glue Boards such as the Trapper can also be used indoors to capture mice and rats.  The Trapper Glue Board is a plastic pan of glue about 1/4" thick.  When the rodent steps onto the glue trap it becomes lodged in the glue base unable to get away.  Care should be taken to remove rats or mice that may still be alive but trapped on a glue board.  Glue boards are inexpensive but have to be replaced with each catch.  Glue boards are not recommended by PETA because it is thought that  they cause a cruel death to the rodent.  What happens is that the rodent tries desperately to get loose from the glue board and as a result becomes covered in glue usually suffocating.  Our opinion on glue boards is that they are a tool to control rodents as should be viewed as such.  They are effective and are absolutely recommended over rodenticides indoors. If you just can't resist using rodenticides indoors - and the rodent dies and decaying rotting odors are a problem, then try using  X-O Odor Neutralizer sprayed onto the effected area.  If you can find the carcass, remove it, and then spray the remaining stains with X-O.  If you can't find the odor then you will have to resort to using aerosol fragrances such as the Micro spray.  The trick is to find the rodent carcass.  If you can't find it, because it is unreachable in the attic or a wall void, then use the Micro spray and live with it until the rodent carcass completely dehydrates in several weeks to months.  Next time learn the lesson of not using rodenticides indoors and use a trap. We carry a complete line of deodorizers designed to rid your home or business of odors.  Click here for a catalog of our deodorizers and odor control products. The bottom line on rodent control with either  rats or mice is that you have to stop them from getting in by sealing up any holes or cracks where they can find entry into the structure.  Use outdoor bait stations to give them what they are looking for (food) by using a rodenticide outdoors.  Indoors, trap them using a kill trap (Rat Zapper) or a live trap (Ketchall).

Fly Control Due To Dead Rats and Mice
If rodents have died inside your walls and flies have appeared, then you will need to control them using our fly control products.  Hide Flies and Bottle Flies are very common where dead animals are found.  They are attracted by the foul rotting odors.  They will lay eggs in the decaying rodents carcass with a resulting infestation of flies appearing within days. 
Click here for information on How To Kill Flies.
 
We have a complete line of rat and mouse traps, glue boards, bait stations, etc. that are used by all the pros.  If you don't like what you see here, then try searching our catalog.


*Application Don'ts: Don't place rodent bait of any kind in an area accessible to children or pets. Rodent bait used indoors may result in rodents dying inside walls or in attics in which they are unremovable. This could result in strong odors resulting from the decaying carcass which could persist for several weeks until the carcass dehydrates. Strong rancid odors caused by dead rats or mice can be controlled with  X-O Odor Neutralizer odor eliminator.
 

Rat & Mice Kit
Kills - Norway, Roof and Field Rats, House & Field Mice Designed For Homes, Apartments, Condominiums, Offices, & Small Businesses. (Not For Food Handling Establishments) Number of Treatments - 2*

QTY	PKG	PRODUCT		AMT
1	1 lb	Contrac Rodenticide	$	9.95
10	SGL	LTD Trapper Glue Traps	$	9.95
10	Ft	Copper Mesh Wool	$	9.95
		Complete Directions For Use		N/C
		Free UPS Shipping ($9.95 Value)		N/C
		Individual Item Total Cost	$	39.8
		Your Cost	$	24.95
		You Save	$	14.85

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