The label and MSDS for each pesticide or termiticide you use should be read and followed BEFORE using any pesticide or Termiticide product. ePestSupply.com does not make specific recommendations for chemical termiticide applications. The information provided here is intended for informational purposes only and is not to be construed as expert treatment advice. If an expert treatment is required, then the services of a professional should be obtained. Follow the chemical label - the label is the law. Your State, County or City may have more restrictive requirements on termiticide applications. You should be aware of any special requirements before you purchase or use any pesticide or termiticide product. Please read our Disclaimer.

How Does A Chemical Barrier Treatment Work ?

Liquid Chemical Barriers work by killing or repelling subterranean termites before they enter the structure. The termites are killed before they enter the structure and/or killed upon leaving the structure to return to the colony. In some cases, when using a repellent chemical such as Masterline Permethrin Plus C, the termites will stay away from the chemical because they have a sense for it and it repels them away from the treated area. If termites are in the structure and a repellent chemical is used, the termites will go up inside the walls and either remain there and attempt to organize a secondary colony or they will attempt to find a new way out of the structure. This is very seldom successful for the blind subterranean termite workers and is usually the case, in the absence of moisture, they are simply trapped inside the wall, cannot organize a new colony and eventually dehydrate (dry up) and die. It is common in homes that have had chemical treatments performed to find thousands of dead dehydrated termites in walls where the termites were trapped and could not get out.



Repellent chemicals tend to repel termites away from structures. Demon TC, Talstar and Dragnet FT are examples of repellent chemicals. The repellency factor of liquid termite chemicals has specific uses - primarily in preconstruction treatments (before the structure is built) and in areas where fast control of subterranean termites is desired.

Non-Repellent chemicals - the newest liquid barrier chemical treatments - are designed to be totally non-repellent to subterranean termites. This non-repellency factor is a great attribute in subterranean termite control. Imidachloprid registered as Premise Termiticide (United States) and Hachikusan (Japan), Fipronyl registered as Termidor and Chlorfenapyr registered as Phantom are examples of non-repellent chemicals. The termites are not repelled and in most cases cannot even sense that these chemicals are present. Non-repellent chemicals work best in spot treatment applications.

An interesting attribute of Premise is that it causes termites to stop feeding and to stop socializing with other termites. After termites are exposed to even small amounts (very few parts per million) of Premise they wander around in a state of confusion until they eventually die. When large amounts of termites die in the same place, this causes a natural repellency for other termites to leave the area.

What Are The Steps Involved In Applying A Chemical Barrier ?

Expensive hydraulic sprayers used to be a hot commodity in the pest control industry. A pest control company would use a sprayer with the highest spraying power (PSI) available. Theidea was that the higher the pressure, the better the coverage of the chemical that was being applied.

All of this changed in the early 1990's when it was found that lower PSI in a hydraulic truck mount spray rig actually did better at dispersing chemicals. The chemical manufacturers then changed their labels (directions for use) to specify that very low pressure of around 25 PSI was to be used in termite treating. This changed the industry forever. Now instead of high powered hydraulic spray units, most pest control companies that are doing chemical treatment for termites use smaller gas powered or electric powered sprayers that do a fine job of dispersing the chemical. In fact, most of these sprayer deliver less pressure than a standard water hose would if you were watering your yard !

What's the point ? For simple termite infestations, you don't need expensive termite treating equipment. In fact, most termite problems can be solved with a few simple tools readily available from your local hardware store - or maybe even your garage ! Of course in more complex termite infestations, the services of a professional should be obtained. However, if you insist on doing it yourself, we've put together a simple strategy for applying termiticides in order to achieve a barrier to kill termite -

Do-It-Yourself Termite Tool Kit:

Outside Foundations (Slabs) and All Pier and Beam Structures: Most termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform treatments along foundation areas.

• Masterline Permethrin Plus C - Permethrin has been an industry standard for 15 years. It is repellent to termites, long lasting in most soils, safe when properly applied and most of all very effective. Masterline Permethrin Plus C contains added cellolosic fibers to help Permethrin bond to and adhere to soil particles for added durability. Resists washing away.

• Premise 2, Termidor - Premise or Termidor are widely used by pest companies.Premise is the # 1 pesticide formula for spot treatments.

• Pic or small shovel. Pics or small shovels are used to dig trenches around your outside perimeter. Pier and Beam structures require trenching around the exterior and interior foundation wall. Piers and plumbing lines also need to be trenched. A pic has a sharp point on one end and a flat spade on the other. The flat spade side is used to dig a trench by dragging it along your foundation wall to make a shallow trench 3-6 inches deep. The dirt from the trench is simply laid back next to the trench for later replacement after chemical treatment. The normal rate of application in a trench is around 4 gallons of termiticide per 10 linear feet or about 1/2 gallon per foot.

• 5 gallon bucket. A 5 gallon bucket is used to mix the termiticide so that it can be applied 4-5 gallons at a time into the trench and/or drill holes. Many pest companies use this technique in the winter time when their spray rigs are frozen up ! We find it is useful in many situations and perfect for the do it yourselfer.
  
  

Patios, Porches, Floating Slabs, Concrete Expansions: Termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform treatments below cement or slab foundations.

• Premise 2, Masterline Permethrin Plus C, Termidor

• Hammer Drill. You can rent hammer drills from any tool rental center. The standard drill bit is a carbide coated tip drill - standard size is 1/2" wide by 18" long. You may also want to rent a ground fault interrupter (GFI). The GFI is a small box that the drill plugs into. The GFI then plugs into any 110V wall plug. GFI's are especially useful when drilling inside slab foundations near plumbing lines. If the drill bit contacts any metal in the slab, it will cut off electricity to the drill and save the drill bit , not to mention plumbing lines, post tension cables, rebar, etc. Make sure that you test the GFI prior to use by touching the tip of the drill to any grounded metal object, such as water lines under a sink, etc..

• 2 gallon bucket. A 2 gallon bucket is used to mix the termiticide so that it can be applied 1-2 gallons at a time into the drill holes. Many pest companies use this technique in the winter time when their spray rigs are frozen up ! We find it is useful in many situations and perfect for the do it yourselfer.
  

• Long Plastic Funnel. A long plastic funnel (1.5 - 2.0 feet) is perfect for inserting into drill holes (1/2" or larger) and dispersing the termiticide below porches, patios, garages, slab foundations, etc. The average rate of application in holes drilled is about 1 gallon of termiticide per hole (holes drilled every 12"). Mix any termiticide in a 2-5 gallon bucket and pour it through the funnel. This technique is useful for treating concrete areas where the soil is tightly compacted against the bottom of the slab and the termiticide has to "drip" down into the soil.

• Rubber gloves and goggles and appropriate clothing. For safety reasons. The products that we sell are safe when used as directed, but be a little safety conscious. You don't want to end up like your termites !

• Trebor plugs. For plugging holes that you drill into the cement foundation. We do not recommend to use paper towels as this is against the label on most pesticides.

• Cement. A small amount of cement or sand mix mixed in a small bowl with water works perfect for patching holes drilled in cement etc. Be sure to plug the hole with the Trebor plug first.
  

Inside Wall Plumbing Penetrations & Plumbing Voids (Slab Foundations): Most termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform wall foaming.

• BoraCare - BoraCare is a sodium borate treatment that is odorless, natural and will kill termites and last the life of the wood. 1 treatment will last the life of the wood. No other treatments to that wood will be necessary.

• Premise 2, Termidor - Premise or Termidor work well for killing existing termites in walls. Both do not last as long as BoraCare.

• Solo Wall Foamer - The Solo Foamer is an excellent tool for applying chemicals into wall voids and other areas where drilling through the cement patio or foundation is too difficult or inappropriate. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill in between wall studs about 4-6 inches from the floor. Use approximately 2 oz of foaming agent and 40ml of termiticide. Fill wall void with 6" layer of foam to penetrate studs, woodwork, etc, and kill termites on contact.

• Air Mate air grill. For covering access holes made to plumbing or bath traps through sheetrock.

After you have stopped the termites with a termiticide, it is time to go after the colony with a bait system.. Termite Colony Baiting can be easily performed with our HomeChoice Termite Baiting System. Using a termite baiting system without first stopping the termites with a termiticide is not the proper approach to controlling termites. Although some pest control companies perform termite baiting without using any termiticide to spot treat the termites, and some pest companies use liquid termiticides and do not use a Termite Baiting System, we think the best approach is a combination of the two. This is currently the technique that most reputable pest companies use.


The 2 Step Professional Approach To Killing Termites:

1 - Spot treat termite activity with a termiticide.
Recommended Products:
Outside Perimeter Foundations - MasterLine Permethrin Plus C, Premise 2 or Termidor
Inside Walls and Voids, Plumbing Penetrations - Bora Care or Premise 2 or Termidor and Solo Wall Foamer

2 -Bait the termite colony with a baiting system.
Recommended Products:
Outside Perimeter Termite Baiting - HomeChoice Termite Detectors

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Click On The Links Below For More Information On How To Kill And Get Rid Of Termites:

How To Kill Termites

Subterranean And Drywood Termite Identification

Termite Baiting - Everything You Want To Know

Termite Bait Station Installation and Inspection Instructions

Liquid Barrier Termite Treatment Methods | Alternative Treatment Methods

Solo Wall Foamer  |  Termidor Termiticide  |  Premise Insecticides  |  Bora-Care

HomeChoice Termite Detectors |  Premise Website  |  Advance Termite Bait

Click Here For Our Termite Supplies Catalog
 

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No Intention Has Been Made To Violate Any Trademarks, Copyrights or Applicable Laws.
The Label Is The Law.  Read, Understand and Follow The Chemical Label BEFORE Using Any Pesticide.
The Information Provided Is The Opinion of ePestSupply.com and
is Intended For Informational Purposes Only.