Termite Treatment Methods Using Termidor, Taurus, Premise, Talstar, Phantom and Prelude
Easy Do-It-Yourself Soil Treatment
Methods For Subterranean Termites
Liquid Chemical Barriers for subterranean termite control work by killing or repelling termites before they
enter the structure. The termites are killed before they enter the structure and/or
killed upon leaving the structure to return to their colony. In some cases, when
using a repellent chemical such as Talstar Professional, the termites will avoid the chemical and stay away from it. If
termites are present inside the structure and a repellent chemical is used, the termites will
"back up" inside the walls to avoid it. In some cases they will attempt to organize a secondary colony to continue living inside the structure or
they will attempt to find a new way out of the structure. This is very seldom
successful for the blind subterranean termite workers. Usually, in the
absence of moisture, they are simply trapped inside the wall, cannot organize a new colony
and eventually dehydrate (dry up) and die. It is common in homes that have had
chemical treatments performed to find thousands of dead termites in walls where
the termites were trapped and could not get out and simply died due to lack of moisture.
Repellent termite insecticides tend to repel termites away from structures. Talstar Professional, Dragnet FT and Bifen are examples of repellent chemicals. The repellency factor of these liquid termite chemicals have specific uses - primarily in preconstruction treatments (before the structure is built) and in areas where fast control of subterranean termites is desired.
Non-Repellent termite insecticides chemicals are designed to be transparent to subterranean termites. This non-repellency factor is a great
attribute in subterranean termite control.
Premise (United States) and Hachikusan (Japan), "Fipronyl"
registered as Termidor and "Chlorfenapyr" registered as
Phantom are examples of non-repellent
chemicals. The termites are not repelled and in most cases cannot even sense that
these chemicals are present. Non-repellent chemicals work best in spot
treatment applications because the termites are killed instead of repelled to other non-treated areas of the structure.
In the 1970's, high pressured sprayers putting out a whopping "150 PSI" were popular in the pest control
industry. The thought was that the higher the pressure, the better the
All of this changed in the early 1990's when it was found that lower PSI did a better job of dispersing chemicals with reduced "drift" and mess. Chemical manufacturers changed their labels (directions for use) to specify that very low pressure of around 25 PSI was to be used in liquid termiticide applications. Today, all pest control companies that are doing liquid temite chemical applications use smaller gas powered or electric powered sprayers. In fact, most of these sprayers deliver less pressure than a standard water hose!
What's the point ? To spot treat with termite insecticides, you don't need expensive equipment. In fact, most liquid termite chemicals can be applied with a few simple tools readily available from your local hardware store. Of course in more complex termite infestations, the services of a professional should be obtained. However, if you want to do it yourself, we've put together a simple strategy that makes the job easy.
Outside Foundations (Slabs) and All Pier and Beam Structures:Most termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform treatments along foundation areas.
Patios, Porches, Floating Slabs, Concrete Expansions:Termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform treatments below cement or slab foundations.
Hammer Drill. You can rent hammer drills from any tool rental center. The standard drill bit is a carbide coated tip drill - standard size is 1/2" wide by 18" long. You may also want to rent a ground fault interrupter (GFI). The GFI is a small box that the drill plugs into. The GFI then plugs into any 110V wall plug. GFI's are especially useful when drilling inside slab foundations near plumbing lines. If the drill bit contacts any metal in the slab, it will cut off electricity to the drill and save the drill bit , not to mention plumbing lines, post tension cables, rebar, etc. Make sure that you test the GFI prior to use by touching the tip of the drill to any grounded metal object, such as water lines under a sink, etc..
2 gallon bucket. A 2 gallon bucket is used to mix
the termiticide so that it can be applied 1-2 gallons at a time into the
drill holes. Many pest companies use this technique in the winter time when their
spray rigs are frozen up ! We find it is useful in many situations and perfect for
the do it yourselfer.
Long Plastic Funnel. A long plastic funnel (1.5 - 2.0 feet) is perfect for inserting into drill holes (1/2" or larger) and dispersing the termiticide below porches, patios, garages, slab foundations, etc. The average rate of application in holes drilled is about 1 gallon of termiticide per hole (holes drilled every 12"). Mix any termiticide in a 2-5 gallon bucket and pour it through the funnel. This technique is useful for treating concrete areas where the soil is tightly compacted against the bottom of the slab and the termiticide has to "drip" down into the soil.
Rubber gloves and goggles and appropriate clothing. For safety reasons. The products that we sell are safe when used as directed, but be a little safety conscious. You don't want to end up like your termites !
Trebor plugs. For plugging holes that you drill into the cement foundation. We do not recommend to use paper towels as this is against the label on most pesticides.
Cement. A small amount of cement or sand mix
mixed in a small bowl with water works perfect for patching holes drilled in cement etc.
Be sure to plug the hole with the Trebor plug first.
Inside Wall Plumbing Penetrations And Plumbing Voids (Slab Foundations):Most termiticide labels have specific instructions on how to perform wall foaming.
Solo Wall Foamer - The Solo Foamer is an excellent tool for applying chemicals into wall voids and other areas where drilling through the cement patio or foundation is too difficult or inappropriate. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill in between wall studs about 4-6 inches from the floor. Use approximately 2 oz of foaming agent and 40ml of termiticide. Fill wall void with 6" layer of foam to penetrate studs, woodwork, etc, and kill termites on contact.
Air Mate air grill. For covering access holes made to plumbing or bath traps through sheetrock.
After you have stopped the termites with a termiticide, it is time to go after the colony with a bait system. Termite Colony Baiting can be easily performed with our Hex Pro Termite Baiting System. Using a termite baiting system without first killing the localized termite infestation with a termite insecticide can allow the termites to continue feeding until control with the baits are achieved. Although some pest control companies follow this philosophy, and some pest companies use liquid termiticides without a termite bait system at all, we think the best approach is a combination of the two. This is currently the technique that most reputable pest control companies use.
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